Quilt Top Preparation
Your quilt top will be quilted in the condition it is received unless you choose additional services like pressing and clipping threads.
Do not pin or baste your quilt, keep layers separate.
Mark the top of your quilt with a LARGE safety pin.
Press well. Press well. Press well. Press seams flat, then press from the top to eliminate little folds between seams.
The corners of your quilt top should be square and true.
Trim any loose threads. Trailing threads can show through light fabrics like veins if not trimmed.
If borders are pieced (ex: Piano-Key border), stay-stitch 3/8 from the edges of the quilt to secure pieced seams.
Check seams on the under-side of you quilt to make sure your seam allowance is sufficient. The hopping foot can go through an unfinished seam.
Quilting does not remove pleats and puckers. If your quilt top has pleats and puckers, and it does not lie flat, quilting will not eliminate it.
Borders that are too long will flare and ripple. There is no guarantee the fullness can be quilted in without pleats.
Do not attach 3-dimensional embellishments, such as buttons, beads, charms, etc. to your quilt top. These should be added AFTER the quilting is finished. Embellishments can keep the quilt top from rolling up correctly on the rollers, so it won't be straight and square. Buttons or beads prevent close quilting and the hopping foot can break them if they are in the way.
Sometimes, fusible applique is so stiff, that a hole may be created where the needle pokes through. It can be echo quilted. Please call to discuss.
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Backing
Backings should measure at least 8-10” LONGER and WIDER than your quilt top. (Measuring 5” to 6” wider and longer on each side of the quilt.)
The backing should be PREWASHED and pieced before sending it to me. (Unless you choose additional services like prepare backing.)
The backing should be squared-up. If it is not square, it will not roll up correctly on the rollers and can cause sagging which may result in unavoidable pleats and puckers. Call me to discuss if you are not sure if your backing is squared-up.
Selvage edges should be removed and seams should be pressed OPEN.
Mark the top of the backing, if applicable. I can center the backing length-wise or width-wise, but not both. Because the top and back are rolled onto different rollers, I cannot guarantee that the center of your backing will align exactly with the center of your quilt top.
Backings should be made of 100% cotton premium fabric or muslin. Wide width fabrics are also available (90” to 120” widths) if you do not want to have seam lines on the back.
Sheets do NOT make good backings. They often have mixed thread contents, causing skip stitches and the needle to break, which can create holes in your quilt top! If you send a 100% flannel or cotton sheet, the hems and selvedges must be removed and it must be squared up. I cannot guarantee quality results using a sheet as backing.
If you plan thread color changes, choose a medium colored print backing rather than a solid or tone-on-tone. If your backing is dark and I am using a light-color thread, it will create a pattern on the back which can be very pretty.
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